Light Meters-the frustrations

[kchukalas]

Hello Everyone,

Well, This camera I have takes the annoying batteries that are impossible to find for the light meter. Hearing aid batteries didn't seem to do the job either.

I am wondering if a light meter is the route for me to go?

Anyone have a clue about this, and which meter is good and which light meter is to be avoided?

Kirk

------------------

[rollemfilm]

what camera are you using?

------------------

[crimsonson]

Hi!
Are you refering to those Mercury batteries? If so, the old Gossen Luna meters used them. Upon the request of customers, since light meters can last a lifetime, created an adaptor to convert modern batteries to be compatible with those PX Mercury batteries. Either call Bogen Tripods (Gossen USA distributor) or ask your local photo store.

Regarding lightmeters:
Depends on your budget.
A beginners one should cost you between $50-90. A Sekonic 328 CII Studio should suffice.

A better one should cost you around $100-150. Gossen Luna Pro F or SBC (my meter) is really good. I would stay away from the Sekonic 398 since they are not as rugged and not as great in low light. There are some digitals around this price range.

for $150 and above you could go Digital (go analog first and understand the fundementals of meters) and get a multi purpose meter.

All of the prices are for used one. You can check E-Bay or better yet your local phot store. You will need a ambient meter ( reflected and incident). Flash meters are useless for your purpose. When you get advance, you can purchase either a Spot attachment for your meter or a meter with Spot capability. A combination of Spot, incident and reflected are the keys to great cinematography.

Hope this helps


------------------

[ulrichsd]

Crimsonson,

I could only find a couple of the 328s on Ebay, and they were digital and going from 150-200+. Is there an cheaper needle model?

Anyway, I have the 398 and have been happy with it. Unless you plan on filming a scene lit only by candlelight or moonlight or something, low light shouldn't be a problem. Besides, not having to change the batteries is a big plus. You can get these for ~$100 on Ebay. $200 retail new at most camera shops.

Light meters are personal preference like most other things. While I'm sure most professionals use top of the line digital, I have still heard from a few people out there that prefer analog.

Good luck,
Scott

Here is Sekonics current line if curious: http://www.sekonic.com/Products/prodinfo.html

[This message has been edited by ulrichsd (edited August 26, 2001).]

[kchukalas]

I'm using the Nikon R8, I'm wondering... what if I guess at the settings for the light.. am I crazy? I managed to get the light meter on my camera working with Zinc air 1.4v batteries (they just don't fit very well.

Do you think that 1.4v Zinc Battery is going to give me an accurate reading for light?

Thanks for all your help, you guys are the greatest.

Kirk

------------------

[crimsonson]

Hi!
First don't use 1.4V because it might give you unreliable reading at best. At worst might damage your meter.

Here is the Gossen battery adaptor that MIGHT work for your 814: http://www.nycv.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi...pkBs30GwHQf33n

Regarding Sekonic,
I aplogize. The 398 comes in two version. The L-398 and the Deluxe II L-398M. The latter is the newer version still in production. The price difference is about $40 ($70 and $110 respectively.).
Here is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1268989221

Regarding metering itself:

Remember your camera's meter while on auto continusly reads the light level. SO if you move it your cam a new reading will follow. It averages the whole scene that you can see in your viewfinder. So if suddenly a shadow appears on your shot, the meter will think the entire scene is not as bright even though on a part of the shot got dimmer. How to read the meter will take some time. But here are some tips:
1. Use auto first on a scene with unchanging light levels (your bedroom?). Look at the meter. Now switch your meter to local and set it to the number what your auto got. Since you are in manual iris your meter should not be moving around. Now take a 5-10 sec shot. Now reduce your meter by half a stop (between the next number down and the current number). Shoot another 5-10 sec. Now increase your meter by a full stop (resulting a half a stop above the original). Shoot again. When you get the film back you will see the difference and thus able to fine tune your next shoots from here. remember each film stock (K40, Plus X, Ekta, etc) reacts differently when underxposed and overexpose. So test them with each stock.

2. A reversal film (K40 and Ekta) has about a latitude of 3 stops. Meaning they can preserve considerable details 1.5 stop below and 1.5 stop above the ideal setting. So if you get a reading of 5.6, anything above 4 and below 8 will have enough details. Negative film has a wider latitude (4 to 5).

3. Regarding the sweet spot - that actually depends on the lens. Traditionally, it has been 5.6-8. Expensive Prime Lens (no zoom ability) and Tele lens (with zoom ability) tends to have a wider sweetspot. Prime lens tend to be a bit wider and sharper. In S8 land, this is moot since only the Beaulieus and one or two rare S8 cams has the ability to take different lenses. Remember the sweet spot refers to the setting where the lens is at its sharpest and not the film stock.

4. Use auto for now and shoot some. Develop you film and see how it turns out. then do my the test I have mentioned and you will slowly migrate to manual. Though auto will still be useful.

Alex:
22 is not the smallest iris setting. The 1014 is 32 and the 1014 XL-S is 45.

In 35mm it could be smaller - 64 and lower.

BTW- Higher number in iris means smaller opening since the number are actaully fractions not whole numbers. With each number twice as large or half of the previous setting. So an 8 allows half the light than 5.6.

5.6 allows twice amount of light as 8.

------------------